Posts Tagged ‘mapusa’

Mapusa Market on a Friday

Posted: October 30, 2011 in Uncategorized
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This market is definitely something to experience. Don’t forget to hone your bargaining skills and expect to haggle. It’s totally expected of you, the buyer. Of course, you can choose to ignore this advice and pay the asking price but the experience is bland and hardly adventurous. Bear in mind, it’s not cool to haggle over food prices because they remain fairly competitive. Feel free to haggle over the prices of other merchandise such as clothing, footwear, shawls, carpets, jewellry and so on.

There is absolutely no end to the merchandise available at this market. Here is another sampling of what you can buy. The goods are diverse and you can expect to see anything and everything.

Take your time and when you get hungry, there’s ample food to tickle your palate with.  Feast your eyes on these scrumptious goa sausages (chorizos) which are not exactly like the spanish chorizo but similar.

There are cafes you can hide in if the heat gets to you – they’re usually air-conditioned. Cafe SF Xavier is my favorite because you can not only eat there but browse around the cafe market for curios and gifts to buy your friends back home. Authentic goan artefacts, books and sweets. The kind of sweets your granny made for Christmas. Dodol, Batco, pinag and all those yummies.

Photos: complements of my flickr friends Fred Noronha and Christina Pinto.


Mapusa Fish Market

Posted: October 13, 2010 in Uncategorized
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goa fish market

It’s my birthday tomorrow and my mother told me that while she waited in anticipation for my arrival, all she could smell was fish, I decided to write a blog about the Mapusa market. Yes, you got it, I was born in Mapusa supposedly not far from the fish market.   I can’t remember if my mother liked fish after that but I certainly do. I could make it my ONLY diet but in this part of the world, fish is not cheap. Also, there are so many environmental and political reasons for not eating this or that fish. I just save it for special times. My family doesn’t care for meat so a special Christmas meal may consist of fish.  Great!

Anyway, back to Mapusa and the fish market. Now, check out the fisherwoman. She looks shrewd doesn’t she. Also, fish must exude some kind of hormone just in the odour because don’t forget these women transport the fish from long distances, carrying the baskets on their head. I tell you the hormones have a direct effect on the fisherwoman’s ability to tear a strip off you if she doesn’t like how you haggle. They either take a liking to you or not. If you are a regular, good thing but if you are a stray who stops by the inspect the fish for it’s freshness, ‘watch out’! You could get a barrage of swear words shouted at you in Konkani. Or else, just a plain  ‘Maka Kallana.’  Guess that shuts a person up. Anyway, my father who did most of the shopping in our family had no problem with these people. He was a regular and probably went to the same women everytime. He didn’t haggle because I think he felt sorry for them and wanted to help their sales. It didn’t make my mother happy when my father came home with way too much fish for just our family to consume. Anyway, none of us kids complained because we loved the fish and the way my mother cooked it.

I loved how Mummy stuffed the bhangde and been looking all over for a recipe. I found this one on GoaNet which looks pretty close to how she made it. I think these days, you can buy the ready made masala paste for the fish but this receipe shows how to make it:

Stuffed Mackerel – Goa Style

Cooking: 20 minutes
6 mackerels, cleaned and deboned (see below), if you like you can skip
deboning the fish
juice from 2 limes
maldon salt
oil for cooking
18 curry leaves
4 onions, peeled and sliced
6 tbsp Goan masala paste (see recipe)
6 tbsp finely chopped corriander
1 large red chilli, seeds removed and diced
To Serve
lemon wedges
slices of shop purchases naan bread (optional)
pilaf rice with chickpeas (see recipe)
or boiled rice

Wash and dry the inside of the fish. Rub salt and lime juice into the flesh
of the mackerels.

Heat a little oil in a saucepan over a moderate-high heat, saute the onion
in the pan until golden brown. Add the curry leaves and masala paste and
cook for a couple of minutes until aromatic. Remove the pan from the heat,
stir in the corriander and chilli. Allow the mixture to cool.

*To Stuff:*
Rub the stuffing mixture on the flesh inside the mackerels. Refigerate for
1-2 hours (to allow the flavours to develop).

*To Cook:*
Preheat a grill. Cover a grill tray with foil and coat it lightly with oil.
Brush the mackerels with oil and place on the grill tray. Cook the fish
under the grill for 5-6 minutes on each side (turning carefully), the fish
should be golden brown and cooked through.
To Serve: Serve with wedge of lemon and accompany with slices of naan bread
(optional) and pilaf or boiled rice.

*To Debone:*
Cut the fish open along the belly, remove its inards, wash and dry it with
kitchen paper or a tea towel. Place it on a board belly side down. Using the
heel of your hand push down on the fish firmly on its backbone. loosening it
from the flesh. Cut the back bone near the head and tail, and carefully pull
it out. Remove the side bones with a sharp knife and pin bone the fish.



Travel from Mapusa

Posted: August 27, 2010 in Uncategorized
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Mapusa Photo

These vehicles rock but make sure that your driver’s eyes are clear and that he repeats the directions to where you want him to take you.  Beware of the driver who has blood shot eyes and especially beware of the one who wears shades.

On my last trip, I was too tired to follow my own instructions, I got into the first rickshaw that offered to take me to Granny’s village into the interior.  My mouth had hardly closed from the tired yawn when the vehicle yanked me forward and my teeth were clamped onto the driver’s shoulder.  No, I’m not a vampire, I assured him.  He laughed and carried on driving like a madman sprung loose from an insane asylum.  I was too tired to feel any fear.  This is what it must be like to truly let go, I told myself.  Let go and let God.  It was a nice feeling.  Freeing.  I even slept, if you can believe that because the vehicle rocked from side to side, hit every pothole on the roads and bidi smoke from the driver’s incessant habit, filled my nostrils.

I didn’t even wake when he deposited me at the base of the village from where I’d have to walk.  He said loudly

‘you have to move from her miss.  I cannot drive up those rocks’

Startled out of my dreams of sorpotel and bibique, I blinked and surveyed my surroundings.  Nothing looked familiar to me.  After all, the last time that I had visited Granny’s village had to be at least ten years before that or more.   I gave the driver his fare, dragged my bag out of the vehicle and watched as he drove off in a cloud of dust.